Six people (Eric and Galén Williams, David and Sue Starrett, Bill Cornelius, and Jim Walker) gathered in Tyler early Saturday morning on June 2nd to load bikes and supplies in a Suburban secured by Bill Cornelius with the TBC trailer in tow. The Natchez Trace excursion began with no definite itinerary, and it was decided along the way to begin in Natchez and not Nashville as previously planned to start cycling that afternoon. The riders changed into cycling clothes 311 miles from Tyler at Natchez State Park, and after a photo at the Natchez terminus the group set off into the unknown at 4:30 p.m. Sue Starrett sagged, and sixty miles were covered before dark at an average speed of 18.5 mph with only three rest stops. Bill got a little giddy, gawked at the scenery a bit too much, ran off the pavement and skidded sideways, but his mountain biking skills paid off as he made a big dab, hung on and straightened out his bike. The first night's motel was the Comfort Inn in Clinton, Mississippi, and Fazio's Italian Restaurant was the chosen eating spot mainly because it was next door.
Sunday morning came very early with Dave Starrett, who was ready to ride, waking everyone about 7:00 a.m. After a shower and a short breakfast, bikes were loaded, and the group headed back to mile marker 66 to begin the day's journey. Bill Cornelius sagged, and Jim Walker rode solo with the two tandems ridden by Eric and Galén Williams, and Dave and Sue Starrett for the first forty miles. Sue relieved Bill at the wheel, and Jim sagged the last forty miles due to some cramping and an overall bad feeling. The Day's Inn in Kosciusko, MS was the night's stay after having pizza at Pizza Hut.
Day three began with an overcast sky and warm humid conditions. Sue did an excellent job driving the Suburban and pulling off the road at various places to make sure everyone was okay. The green grass, however, was deceiving in one spot and proved to be growing on very slick soil, which Eric referred to as Mississippi river bottom mud. The vehicle became hopelessly stuck, and the cyclists took a long unplanned break. A woman, who works for the park, was helpful by giving the name of a nearby wrecker service. The cell phone was out of range so Dave hopped on his bike and rode to fetch help. The wrecker arrived without Dave, and the driver told us that Dave didn't want his bike to get skinned up in the back of the wrecker so he was riding it back. Dave came back after a nine mile round trip shortly followed by a Park Ranger in a car with lights flashing. The ranger was nice about the incident, and the wrecker had no trouble pulling the Suburban and trailer back to the surface. The cycling distance for the day was 75 miles ending at Witch Dance, and Jim felt surprisingly well with no more problems. A newly opened motel, Western Inn Suites, was found in Houston, MS, and dining was superb at the Greek owned Pappa's Pizza and Steak House on the square.
Moore's Restaurant was the breakfast spot before heading back to Witch Dance to begin the fourth day's adventure. The day was overcast and cool, and everyone rode and rested at their own pace. Jim overshot the planned lunch stop at Twentymile Bottom Overlook, and Eric drove the Suburban eight miles down the trace to retrieve him. After Sue's sandwiches at the fifty mile point, another forty miles was ridden to Buzzard Roost Springs for the longest one day distance of ninety miles. Accommodations were at the Days Inn in Muscle Shoals, AL, where the Western Sizzler buffet was enjoyed by all.
Everyone ate hardy at Shoney's breakfast buffet Wednesday morning before heading back to Buzzard Roost Springs to begin the fifth day's ride. Lunch consisted of Sue's sandwiches 47 miles later at Glenrock Branch. Jim didn't feel well after a sugar overdose on a snicker doodle and zonked out for awhile in the Suburban, but Galén felt "frisky" and zoomed by Bill on a hill and was winning on the second hill until she flatted. The 77 mile ride concluded after riding up the longest climb on the trip, a 2.2 mile hill on Devil's Backbone. Deerfield Inn in Hohenwald, TN was the last motel on the trip. The Rio Colorado on the square was within walking distance, and proved to be an excellent choice for Mexican food while watching a heavy thunderstorm through the window.
The rain was still falling on a cool Thursday morning with only 50 miles left to ride on the Trace. A decision was made to eat breakfast at the General Cafe before packing in hopes the weather would improve. It was still raining when the group arrived at Devil's Backbone, and the thought of ending the tour early was given attention, but the decision was to ride. The rain was relentless and cool, but finally ended at the Nashville terminus where a decision was made to drive the 600 miles back to Tyler. After one fuel stop and a stop to eat at a Cracker Barrel and later for barbecue, the tired travelers arrived in Tyler at 1:30 a.m. Friday morning.
The Natchez Trace, which is a scenic roadway, designated bicycling route, and part of the National Park system, was a dream-come-true for Eric. He first heard about it while studying Mississippi history in junior high, and first drove a section while a student at Ole Miss. He called the park headquarters in Tupelo, MS several years ago, and was sent a packet with a long, narrow map of the entire trace and thought it would make a great bike trip.
Overall the Trace was a great place to ride with lush forests, fields, scenic farmhouses, rock outcroppings, wild animals, and much history. There are no stop signs, traffic lights, or billboards on the trace. The terrain was fairly flat, but became hilly toward the Nashville end with a few 35+ mph decents and several climbs including the 2.2 mile hill on Devil's Backbone. The Trace has optical illusions where it looks to be downhill when it is actually ascending. The traffic was usually light and the pavement in excellent condition with no rubble except for an occasional carcass.
"Snake" was the most commonly uttered word of caution while coming upon both live and dead ones. Only one dead squirrel was sighted, and Eric speculated that the ones on the trace must have evolved to a higher level than those in east Texas. A few turtles, deer, turkeys and one dead fox were also sighted. Dave heard what sounded like a bear, and stayed clipped in with an escape route planned while waiting for everyone to arrive at the Nashville terminus. Eric and Jim identified birds by their songs with the others in the group thinking they were making them up. Birds heard include: yellow-billed cuckoo, wood thrush, indigo bunting, red-bellied, downy and pileated woodpecker, yellow-shafted flicker, and yellow-breasted chat. A Cannabis plant was found growing at the Nashville terminus.
There were no mechanical difficulties with the bikes and only one flat on Dave's bike and one on Galén's. Motels were easily found, and the food was excellent. The group drew some glances in the small town cafes from the locals as they viewed the cycling attire, but everyone spoken with along the way was very friendly. The weather cooperated with mostly mild temperatures and an occasional light rain until the last day when it downpoured for most of the day.
Everyone will have great memories of quietly pedaling through the forests from the Mississippi River watershed on the western side of Mississippi to the Tombigbee River on the eastern side, then crossing the Tennessee River in Alabama and into the Cumberland Mountains in Tennessee. The Natchez Trace is a national treasure and a piece of Americana.
Bill summed up the sentiments of the group stating, "The best part of the trip was being with a great group of friends who, for a little while, seemed more like a family. Each one brought their own sense of humor and personality, and the laughter was more contagious than any illness." Dave was the official laundry man, Jim sported his new Yule Brenner look, Eric related a lot of interesting trivia, Sue pampered us, Galén practiced her Southern elocution, and Bill didn't like riding in the rain. It was also educational with topics covering "restless leg syndrome," bird identification, and how to sing and dance a historical tidbit about Louie LaFleur to the tune of "Louie Louie."
Finally, Galén openly confirmed what had been known for years--that no one had a clue as to what was going on in her brain. Next year, COLORADO!
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Other Natchez Trace info:
Natchez Trace Parkway by Jim Parks
Natchez Trace National Park Service
Gorp, Natchez Trace Parkway, Mississippi Scenic Drives
PDF Map of Trace
The Devil's Backbone, Life on the Natchez-Nashville Trace
Times Daily Alabama Newspaper--go here and enter Natchez Trace in search for articles.